Signs of a main water line problem
- A wet or soggy area in the yard between the meter and the house.
- Water bubbling up through soil, pavers or a crack in the driveway.
- A depression or small sinkhole forming along the line's path.
- A sudden drop in water pressure throughout the house.
- The meter keeps moving after you close the main shutoff valve at the house.
- Rusty or discolored water, a common sign of a corroding galvanized line.
- A hissing sound at the meter box.
Your water line and the city's
City of Delray Beach Utilities generally owns and maintains the meter and the pipe on the street side of it, and the property owner is responsible for the service line from the meter to the house. If a leak is at the meter or on the street side, the city repairs it. Our locating work shows which side of the meter the leak is on before any digging starts.
How we repair or replace a water line
Confirm the leak
A meter test with the house shutoff closed confirms the leak is on the service line. See water leak detection.
Trace and locate
An electronic locator traces the line's path and acoustic listening finds the leak point along it.
Utility locates
Underground utilities are marked through Sunshine 811 before any digging, as Florida law requires.
Excavate or bore
We open a trench at the leak or bore under hardscape for a full replacement.
Repair and connect
The section or full line is replaced and connected with proper fittings and a shutoff valve.
Flush, test and restore
We flush the line, test it under pressure, backfill, and restore the surface.
Water line materials in Delray Beach homes
| Material | Where it is found | Common problem |
|---|---|---|
| Polybutylene | Gray plastic pipe in homes built from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s. | Pipe and fittings break down in chlorinated water and fail suddenly. Replacement is recommended. |
| Galvanized steel | Older homes, especially before the 1960s. | Rusts from the inside, restricting flow and eventually leaking. |
| Copper | Many homes from the 1950s onward. | Corrosion from aggressive soil or water, and leaks at joints. |
| PVC | Many homes from the 1970s onward. | Cracks at glued fittings when soil settles or roots press on it. |
| PEX and polyethylene | Modern replacement lines. | Flexible, corrosion resistant and made in long runs with few joints. |
Repair a section or replace the whole line?
A single leak on newer pipe is repaired by replacing the damaged section. Polybutylene, galvanized steel, or a line that has already leaked more than once is usually replaced from end to end. We replace lines by open trench, or by boring and pulling new pipe under driveways, walkways and mature landscaping to leave the surface intact. When the line is replaced, we can also add a new main shutoff valve and a pressure-reducing valve where the house lacks a working one.
Water Line Repair questions
How long will my water be off?
A section repair usually means a few hours without water. A full line replacement is typically prepared ahead of time so the actual shutoff lasts for part of one day.
Will you have to dig up my driveway?
Usually not. For full replacements we bore under driveways and walkways and pull the new pipe through, with small access pits on either side.
Why is my water pressure suddenly low?
A leak on the service line, rust buildup inside a galvanized line, a failing pressure-reducing valve or a problem on the city side can all lower pressure. Testing pressure at the meter and at the house tells them apart.
Does water line replacement need a permit?
Replacing a water service line generally requires a plumbing permit. We obtain it and schedule the inspection.